Definitions using an open clothespin diagram.
hole spring
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\__n__0________________________/ leg
__u__0________________________
/______________________________\ leg
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clamping area
#Wood versus plastic:
Wooden clothespins are a bit kinder and have less tendency to abrade,
thus it is suggested you start with them. Plastic clothespins tend to have
much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a 'feel' much stronger than
the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothespins are very
nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for greater intensity.
Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older,
thicker ones being a bit better, and the thin ones more likely to splinter
or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for perhaps $4 American,
these rank among least expensive of toys, and among the most versatile.
Almost anything one may do with fingertip squeezing may be done with clothespins,
and several things that cannot be accomplished with one's fingers may easily
be done with these tiny household beauties. Of course, this does leave
your hands free for other activities....
#Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
Unmodified, most wooden clothespins of quality grip with between 4
and 6 pounds of pressure over an area of 3/16 X 1/2 inches. This is too
much for some, and not enough for others. The grip is best increased by
wrapping the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased in several
ways. The simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping something that
requires
the clothespin to be open to its limit for several days.
This will
reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial
strength of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time
one allows for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would
normally travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to
control.
Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist
the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without permanently
weakening the spring.
If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through
both legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread
a bolt through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow
for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut
combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best
to drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment.
This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time,
as the pressure may be slowly increased as the ability to enjoy the sensation
improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or
cords attached to such holes and hardware.
#'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]:
One classical place to begin with clothespins is the nipple, but there
are many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended
most often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not
from the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps
a bit of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of 'bite' as
grasping the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for sensitivity
without causing severe pain.
It is best to start with a rather weak
clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning,
try not to leave the pins on for too long [start with what you can endure,
and eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes [It is advised not to
leave them on longer than this].
The longer the clamping time, the more
fierce the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity
afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person,
the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this period
to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial 'wet
noodle' or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied immediately
after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the
sensation if that is desired.
You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered
in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on
the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed
for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps. You
might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola
as hir ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing the
tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may also
be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.
One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
smallest female breasts.
Take two clothespins and glue the outsides of the legs together with
a slight overlap so:
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\_________________________0__n___/
__________________________0__u___
/_________________________________\
glue
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\__n__0________________________/
__u__0________________________
/______________________________\
then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once.
The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be present,
thus causing her to jiggle her breasts gently can be fun, and of course,
this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size differences may require
an additional short piece of wood to link the pair together, length best
found by experiment.
Some have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with strings, chains
or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a thin cord or thread,
unwaxed dental floss has a good effect. Avoid slipknots for the obvious
reason that they might tighten too far in use.
Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to
remove it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the
longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible
to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device,
and combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright 'explosions'
to the sensations of a 'standard' flogging without switching instruments
or striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form
of eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
#Other places you might wish to try:
Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either
for sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion
of the torso and limbs where one may gather a bit of skin come immediately
to mind. In view of the tiny expense, one might use many dozens at one
time.
Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
- a row, circle [or other
sigil of your choice] on the belly or back
- one or more on the labia or
other areas like the inner thigh or arm
- a belt of clothespins round
the waist
- small clothespins on the webbing
of fingers and toes
- the earlobe [the dangling legs
of the clothspin brush the neck nicely]
- behind the knees and inside
the elbows
- a circle round the thighs as
a reminder to keep them spread
#'Zippers' and other tailoring:
Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothespins, thread
them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have
created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the first
time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound made by
the pins pulling off sensitive skin [there may be other sounds as well].
The spacing may
vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows of 20 or so clothespins
are common.
The inside of the upper arm or thigh are rather traditional for these,
but most areas of the body are available, one favorite being the side of
the body normally covered by the arms, after binding the arms over the
head. Ticklish and sensitive.
A 'tri-zipper' is a name for three of these single zippers with one
end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find
something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the
farthest pins attaching to the nipples and/or other areas, perhaps with
a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the nearest ones
fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified anticipation
as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each pin popping
off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most sensitive areas
is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes volumes of coloratura
shrieking.
Another design is dubbed the Reverse Garter, 'reverse' in the sense
of pulling down rather than up. Two bands of non-stretch material [webbing,
fabric or leather will do] with buckles or other adjustable fasteners are
put high up around each thigh, perhaps five inches from the pubis, although
this dimension will vary. Sewn or riveted onto the band is a close [almost
touching] row of four clothespins on the inside of the leg, with the clamping
ends pointing upwards. These are first attached to the outer labia, then
the band is adjusted to a position to gently stretch the lips and tightened
so as not to be pulled further up the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and
provides both more pull and an interesting display when she spreads her
legs. Delectable.
[Note: There are major sensation differences between the outer lips
and more inner tissues, grasping these areas with the same force is likely
to cause considerably more pain than anticipated.]
#Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more
elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.
Purchase some short 1/8th inch diameter brads or finish nails, and
a drill of the same diameter.
Drill three holes through the clamping end of two clothespins. Sand,
grind, or file the ends of the brads to a smooth *ROUND* tip then push
them through so they protrude into the clamping area while the clothespin
is held open 1/8th inch. Use a drop of strong glue to hold the brads in
place,
and saw off the excess length from the outside of the pins after the
glue dries. This is as it might appear when completed [end view of clamping
section].
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||| |||
||| ||| Clothespin is not closed, there is
||----|| -1/8 inch gap held open by brad ends
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| || |
| || |
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Exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates primarily
on three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use this carefully,
preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as above, and make quite
sure by testing on yourself first that the ends of the brads are NOT SHARP
at all to avoid damage. Useful for those seeking more than a 'regular'
clothespin
may provide.
Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all
based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden
clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt 'teeth'
aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.
Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw
or rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied
over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted
to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with sandpaper
to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury. View from above of the
clamping end with the side removed.
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spring
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#A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
Tradition demands testing on the web of one's hand, this is well and
good for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual sensation
of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability, qualities dear
to the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of experimentation
resulted in the following frame to directly and accurately measure clamping
force in clothespins.
With minor modifications, it serves to measure certain other sorts
of spring-clamp pressure as well. Recognized is the source of error from
measuring the force at the hole rather than the clamping area, but it is
a difference both trivial and consistent, and thus may be ignored for comparative
testing.
wingnut
------------------- piece of wood--|--------
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\__n__0________________________/
| clamp to tabletop
0 ---------------------piece of wood-|--------
__u__0________________________
bolt
/__|____________________________\
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| -cord
to spring scale
Select two boards longer than 8 inches, wider than 1 inch, and perhaps
1/4 inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on top of one another.
Drill a hole through both 5 inches or so from one end. Put a bolt through
this hole, and thread a wingnut on the bolt. Clamp the other end of the
boards firmly to a table or bench, slide one leg of the clothespin into
the tapered space between the two boards, then tighten the wingnut. This
frame will hold the clothespin for testing. Once the pin is held firmly
inplace, use a thin cord attached to a spring tension scale [ use an 'anglers
scale', accurate from 1 to 28 pounds, any 'pulling' scale with a hook will
do], and pull downwards against the clamping area until the clothespin
opens.
This measurement will vary from the pull necessary to just open the
jaws to a higher reading before the jaws reach their limit of travel. As
mentioned, the 'standard' clothespins tested fall somewhere in the
region of 4-6 pounds, stretching for several days may yield less than 3
pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin spring will swiftly reduce
the pressure to 1 pounds
or less. If one has the time and interest, coding the various strength
ranges of tested clothespins for different tastes and applications is possible,
either by color or by filing groove patterns in the legs to select by touch.
"Twenty of the red ones for a start, I am in an evil mood tonight." |
