|I wish I knew to whom the following should be attributed, but it's been passed around so much, the author's name was lost somewhere along the way. If anyone knows, please let us know. I hope you find it useful and...well...informative. **grin**|
Definitions using an open clothespin diagram.
#Wood versus plastic:
Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older, thicker ones being a bit better, and the thin ones more likely to splinter or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for perhaps $4 American, these rank among least expensive of toys, and among the most versatile. Almost anything one may do with fingertip squeezing may be done with clothespins, and several things that cannot be accomplished with one's fingers may easily be done with these tiny household beauties. Of course, this does leave your hands free for other activities....
#Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
This will reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial strength of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time one allows for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would normally travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to control.
Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without permanently weakening the spring.
If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread a bolt through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best to drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment. This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time, as the pressure may be slowly increased as the ability to enjoy the sensation improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or cords attached to such holes and hardware.
#'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]:
It is best to start with a rather weak clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning, try not to leave the pins on for too long [start with what you can endure, and eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes [It is advised not to leave them on longer than this].
The longer the clamping time, the more fierce the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person, the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this period to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial 'wet noodle' or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied immediately after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the sensation if that is desired.
You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps. You might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola as hir ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing the tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may also be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.
One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
smallest female breasts.
then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once.
Some have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with strings, chains or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a thin cord or thread, unwaxed dental floss has a good effect. Avoid slipknots for the obvious reason that they might tighten too far in use.
Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to remove it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device, and combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright 'explosions' to the sensations of a 'standard' flogging without switching instruments or striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form of eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
#Other places you might wish to try:
Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
#'Zippers' and other tailoring:
A 'tri-zipper' is a name for three of these single zippers with one end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the farthest pins attaching to the nipples and/or other areas, perhaps with a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the nearest ones fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes volumes of coloratura shrieking.
Another design is dubbed the Reverse Garter, 'reverse' in the sense
of pulling down rather than up. Two bands of non-stretch material [webbing,
fabric or leather will do] with buckles or other adjustable fasteners are
put high up around each thigh, perhaps five inches from the pubis, although
this dimension will vary. Sewn or riveted onto the band is a close [almost
touching] row of four clothespins on the inside of the leg, with the clamping
ends pointing upwards. These are first attached to the outer labia, then
the band is adjusted to a position to gently stretch the lips and tightened
so as not to be pulled further up the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and
provides both more pull and an interesting display when she spreads her
#Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt 'teeth' aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.
Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury. View from above of the clamping end with the side removed.
#A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
Select two boards longer than 8 inches, wider than 1 inch, and perhaps
1/4 inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on top of one another.
This measurement will vary from the pull necessary to just open the jaws to a higher reading before the jaws reach their limit of travel. As mentioned, the 'standard' clothespins tested fall somewhere in the region of 4-6 pounds, stretching for several days may yield less than 3 pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin spring will swiftly reduce the pressure to 1 pounds or less. If one has the time and interest, coding the various strength ranges of tested clothespins for different tastes and applications is possible, either by color or by filing groove patterns in the legs to select by touch. "Twenty of the red ones for a start, I am in an evil mood tonight."